Why I Surf | Moments from a Surfing Life


the drunk sun lowers his gaze, turning the
ocean to beer and it sloshes against white powder
the ashes of ancient mountain pyres now loose to the wind
creaking between toes the sun’s last gasp
the roar and fizz of a set wave sudden night chills and demons deep below
the glide, the flow the safety of sand
the trudge back up to solid land the lists of things to do
the should and could the what might have been
decisions made in haste and lust and sloth indecision bred of fear
the what could have been no matter, there’s a thread that links the
days one thing that’s stayed the same
not the dark nights under lights not the hunt for soft skin
not fight or flight or avoidance of pain
not running, running, running away it’s wax forming bumps
it’s watching the wind it’s the gap between sets
it’s the wait it’s the wave
it’s in that the light on the water
the salt on my skin droplets dangling sunshine
it’s in that i am that

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