In the year 2001, I was sitting tired after catching a lots of fish at work. That time I saw some surfers actually until then I didn’t know what surfing was I was thinking: who are these foreign people in orange dress?
What’s that big board they are using?
Because we use a different wooden board (boat) So I went and asked a foreigner who was 6ft. tall and he gave me his board. I tried doing it by getting the board. Actually I did it by lying on the board where as he did it standing, which is actually a different feel I asked for his number and called him twice after that day His name was actually Jack Aprin, but he changed it to Surfing Swamy. He was running a surfing school at manglore which I wasn’t aware about.
The only outer place I knew was banglore. I didn’t even know how to make a call too. My friends used to help me with it. I spoke to him twice and after that I lost his number. But even that 10minutes of talk motivated me a lot. I tried a lot to do this and even tried getting a board through my uncle
but I couldn’t because they said: these are foreign equipment, it’s hard to find here But luckily if you’re interested in something and if you wanted it, you’ll definitely
get it by God’s grace and that’s what happened to me. So in 2003 an Australian surfer gave his surfing board to a guy before he left. But he didn’t have interest in doing that. I gave him 1500rupees and bought that board from him I used fishing rope as leash, beach mud as wax and coconut oil as sunscream. I tried using the things I had. Many kept teasing me, but I kept continuing my practice. After getting the board I thought of involving a lot of kids into this and I started giving it to them and even they started liking it You can improve in something only when you’re totally involved in it. So I started teaching a lot of kids about the board and talking on how to surf Because of this I got sponsored. A person called Gautham took a documentary movie about me
and Arun Vas (TT group chairman) saw the movie. They both started a school for me Once the school was started, I wanted to take it into a social level.
My angle was mainly social and then business. The first time when I came here, I realised I want to do surfing through out my life. My house is at Adayar in the city So daily it takes one and a half hour to come here by bus. But even if it is so, I never felt like not coming here even a single day even if it takes time because I feel happy to do it. Moorthy has been an overall guide for me, I couldn’t afford renting a board everyday because it’s so expensive But he never even asked me once, because he knows my interest in surfing. So he gave me a board from the school and through him I was able to learn a lot. For local kids everything is free like free board, free lessons. But they’ve conditions like cleaning the beach, helping mentally ill people, creating an awareness during the health camp Even creating an awareness for kids because when it comes to sport you shouldn’t smoke or drink If you’re healthy you can achieve anything. And in few days the students started participating and achieving the first place in national level competitions Shekar, a village boy has now participated in the world athletics level parallel boarding championship. For surfing, a person should be interested in an adventure and should be confident to do that adventure. We make them do warm up like, run and swim to know their confident level and body movements Safety is our priority, so we teach them with instructors First is the introduction classes which is one and a half hours long Second, we go to the ocean for half an hour so that they learn, the smell, the current, the wind condition,
how the current and waves form? So we explain the safety first and secondly about the equipments. About the board like, the nose, the tail, the top, the bottom, the fin. And even, how to lay down on the board, how to turn the board? So point by point the instructors teach the students, whatever is taught on sand is put into practice in the water Surfing is actually good for health, more than health it’s good for mind My only dream is to make Kovalam surfing village into a surfing Mecca Srilanka is small country comparing our nation, but with surfing sport government is earning a lot as income Even in bali, millions of people across the world travel for the sport which is beneficial for the government & people aswell. So, surfing should come up. And my village should develop even more If surfing has been a growth for me, then my wife is the reason behind it. I’ve 2kids, one10year old and one 5year old. I can grow the interest for surfing in them but bringing an improvement is upto them. It’s upto them to use this opportunity and the rest is in the hands of God.